The malmal of South Asia was famous and has been much sought after since time immemorial, even well before the time of Buddha. Celebrated for its exquisite craftsmanship, attention to detail and sheer translucency, the techniques for weaving this magnificent fabric were shrouded in ancient lore and closely guarded secrets of the master artisans that were passed down from generation to generation. It was said that if the finished material was laid out on the ground overnight by the weaver, it would be near impossible to find in the morning because the dew would make it transparent and difficult to see on the grass. The story of malmal is the story of a people. Once sold for its weight in silver, it was a symbol of the height of fashion in many lands.

Through most of the centuries this malmal was only worn by the omra, courtiers and royalty. Among the range of these high quality fabrics was one called Abrawan, which means running water, and Circar, which was a close textured muslin made specially for Nawabs or rulers. The most delicate, Malmal Khas was reserved for the king. The Empress Nur Jahan particularly patronized the production of malmal and developed the exquisite art of the internationally famous chikankari (white on white) embroidery on it. There is the tale that once the Emperor Aurengzeb chided his daughter Zeb-un-Nisa for wearing a dress that was too see-through. He told her to wear something over it. Zeb-un-Nisa told him, ‘But father, I am already wearing four dresses of this malmal.’